PLA vs PETG vs ABS: Which Filament Should You Use?
PLA, PETG, or ABS? We compare strength, ease of printing, heat resistance, and cost to help you pick the right filament for your 3D prints.
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Take Our QuizSo you've got a 3D printer and now you're staring at filament options. PLA, PETG, ABS... what's the actual difference? Short answer: PLA for learning, PETG for functional parts, ABS only if you really need heat resistance. Here's the longer version.
PLA: Start Here Everyone starts with PLA. Print at 190-220°C nozzle, 50-60°C bed, and it just works. No warping, no smell, no drama. The Amazon Basics PLA (around £13/kg) is solid value with nearly 19,000 reviews on Amazon.
The catch? PLA is brittle. Drop a PLA part on a hard floor and it'll crack. Leave it on a car dashboard in summer and it'll warp into modern art. It handles about 50-60°C before softening.
For display pieces, prototypes, and anything staying indoors, PLA is perfect. I'd say 80% of what most hobbyists print is fine in PLA.
PETG: The One Most People Should Graduate To Once you're comfortable with PLA, PETG is the obvious next step. It prints at higher temps (230-250°C nozzle, 70-80°C bed) and you'll get more stringing at first. Slow down your print speed and dial in retraction, and it behaves well.
The OVERTURE PETG (around £15/kg) is a good starting point. Much tougher than PLA. Where PLA snaps, PETG flexes and absorbs impact. Good layer adhesion means stronger functional parts. Handles 70-80°C before softening, which means it survives British summers.
PETG also doesn't absorb water, making it suitable for outdoor use, plant pots, and anything that might get wet. If you need parts that actually do something, PETG is probably your material.
ABS: Old School, High Maintenance ABS was the standard before PLA took over. It's tough, heat-resistant (handles around 100°C), and you can smooth it with acetone vapour for a glossy finish. Those are real advantages.
But. You need an enclosure. You need ventilation. Print settings are demanding (230-260°C nozzle, 90-110°C bed). Without an enclosed chamber, ABS warps aggressively. The fumes are unpleasant and you shouldn't be breathing them.
Most people who think they need ABS actually need PETG. Unless you're printing parts for under-bonnet automotive use or something that'll sit near a heat source above 80°C, skip ABS. For outdoor parts where UV is the concern, look into ASA instead.
Quick Comparison
| PLA | PETG | ABS | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ease of printing | Easy | Moderate | Hard |
| Strength | Brittle | Strong & flexible | Tough |
| Heat resistance | ~55°C | ~75°C | ~100°C |
| Enclosure needed | No | No | Yes |
| Post-processing | Sand, paint | Sand, paint | Acetone smoothing |
| Safety | No fumes | Minimal | Ventilation required |
| Cost (quality) | £15-20/kg | £15-25/kg | £18-25/kg |
What I'd Recommend Start with PLA. Seriously. Learn your printer, get your settings dialled in, understand what good layer adhesion looks like. SUNLU PLA Plus (around £18/kg, often discounted) is a good step up from basic PLA with better toughness.
Once you're printing functional parts that need to survive real use, move to PETG. The learning curve is small and the results are worth it.
ABS? Skip it unless you have a specific reason and an enclosed printer with ventilation. I'm not being dramatic. Most of r/3Dprinting will tell you the same thing.
Don't Cheap Out on Filament Cheap filament causes more failed prints than bad settings. Budget £18-25/kg for reliable results. For critical prints where dimensional accuracy matters, Prusament PLA (around £32/kg) is the gold standard with ±0.02mm precision. And store your filament properly. Moisture ruins everything, especially PETG and ABS. See our filament storage guide for the simple setup.
Still choosing your first printer? Our beginner printer guide covers the best options. Already printing? Check our [FDM vs resin comparison](/guides/fdm-vs-resin-printer) if you're curious about the other side.
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