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Best 3D Printer Upgrades 2026: What Actually Matters
Buying Guide

Best 3D Printer Upgrades 2026: What Actually Matters

Not all upgrades are equal. BLTouch ($40), PEI sheets ($22), and metal extruders transform your printer. RGB lighting does not. Here's what matters.

By 3DPrinterAdvice Team|Updated 15 January 2026

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Not all upgrades are equal. Some transform your printing experience. Others empty your wallet without improving results. Here's what actually matters.

Tier 1: Essential Upgrades These solve real problems most printers have.

Auto Bed Leveling: If your printer lacks it, add it. The ANTCLABS BLTouch is the gold standard. It removes the biggest beginner frustration. Worth every penny on any printer without automatic leveling. *(Price when reviewed: ~$40 | Check price)*

Metal Extruder ($10-15): The plastic extruders on budget printers crack. Replace with a metal one before it happens, not after. A preventive upgrade that costs almost nothing.

Upgraded Springs or Silicone Spacers ($8-12): Stock bed springs compress over time. Stiffer springs or silicone spacers hold bed level longer between adjustments.

Tier 2: Quality Improvements These improve print quality or capability once you've mastered basics.

All-Metal Hotend ($25-50): Stock PTFE-lined hotends max out around 240C. All-metal versions handle 280C+, enabling PETG, TPU, and ABS without degradation. Only upgrade if you'll use these materials.

Direct Drive Conversion ($40-80): Essential for flexible filaments like TPU. Stock Bowden setups on printers like the Ender 3 struggle with flexible materials. Conversion kits from MicroSwiss or Creality solve this.

PEI Build Surface: The Creality PEI Sheet is double-sided with smooth and textured options. Prints stick when hot, release when cool. Better adhesion than stock surfaces with less prep work. A genuine quality-of-life improvement. *(Price when reviewed: ~$22 | Check price)*

Tier 3: Enthusiast Territory These offer marginal improvements at significant cost or complexity.

Linear Rails ($60-150): Replace stock rollers with linear rail motion systems for smoother movement. Benefits are minimal unless you're chasing maximum speed or print quality.

Klipper Firmware (Free but complex): Replaces stock firmware with superior motion control. Enables input shaping and pressure advance for better quality at speed. Requires separate Raspberry Pi and significant configuration time.

Dual Z-Axis ($30-50): Adds a second Z motor to prevent gantry sag. Useful on large format printers, overkill on standard Ender 3 size machines.

What Not to Waste Money On RGB lighting: Looks nice, prints nothing better Fancy filament runout sensors: Most are unreliable "Upgraded" fans: Stock fans are usually fine Exotic nozzles: Steel and hardened nozzles only matter for abrasive filaments

The Real Upgrade Time spent calibrating beats money spent on parts. A perfectly tuned stock Ender 3 prints better than a heavily modified but poorly calibrated one. Master your printer before modifying it.

Upgrade Priority for Ender 3 V2 1. Auto bed leveling if not included - BLTouch 2. Metal extruder 3. PEI bed surface - Creality PEI Sheet 4. All-metal hotend (if printing PETG) 5. Nozzle cleaning kit for maintenance

*(Prices when reviewed: BLTouch ~$40, PEI Sheet ~$22, Nozzle kit ~$8 | Check BLTouch | Check PEI Sheet | Check Nozzle kit)*

Learn what your printer can do stock before deciding what it needs.

Products Mentioned in This Guide

ANTCLABS

ANTCLABS BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor

ANTCLABS

The gold standard auto-leveling sensor. Creates mesh map of bed surface to compensate for imperfecti...

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best upgrade for a 3D printer?

Auto bed leveling (BLTouch at $40) if your printer lacks it. Removes the #1 beginner frustration. After that, a PEI build surface ($22) improves adhesion significantly.

Is a direct drive upgrade worth it?

Only if you plan to print flexible filaments like TPU. For PLA and PETG, Bowden works fine. Direct drive adds $40-80 and slight speed reduction.

Should I upgrade to an all-metal hotend?

Only if printing above 240C (PETG at high temps, ABS, nylon). Stock PTFE hotends work perfectly for PLA and normal PETG temps. Upgrade when you need it, not before.

What upgrades should I avoid?

RGB lighting (cosmetic only), most filament runout sensors (unreliable), exotic nozzles for normal filaments, and any upgrade before you've mastered stock calibration.

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